Good work bud looks well tidy 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good work bud looks well tidy 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This weekend is going to be fun
Last edited by tubbyG; 28-02-2018 at 11:01.
I purchased everything pictured from a member on here as a complete kit for a very reasonable price - loom, trigger wheel, crank vr sensor, bracket, coil pack, leads.
I will be adding in inlet air temp, coolant temp & MAP sensor when installing. Also I am new to this so dont know how well it performs, but from what I have read so far its a worthwhile mod. Its a fairly simple system to install...... and getting away from the AEI on a modified setup has to be a good thing!
It doesn't look that simple a fit! Interested in seeing how it goes though. Enjoy
Nodiz installed...............................and it runs
Will get pics up later once I get to the laptop!
Last night I got to work on the loom and downloading the software.
Rigged it all up to test the Bluetooth connection and basemaps.
This morning I set about stripping the car - removing all associated AEI gubbins
In an attempt to prevent the trigger wheel from slipping I welded the bottom pulley to the crank pulley hub
Then to clamp the trigger wheel, tapped 4 m6 threads into it
Last edited by tubbyG; 28-02-2018 at 11:05.
since the dizzy was no longer needed...............
crank pulley and trigger wheel on
engine set to tdc, trigger wheel set and secured
Coil pack in place of old dizzy - Just placed here until I got it running and order some longer leads
Crank sensor mounted and loom then fed into position
It was now ready to run!!
and it did...............Not quite first turn of the key - but after some coughing and spluttering she fired into life.....
First impressions are good. Engine seems to idle smoother and throttle response has greatly improved ..... Yet to drive it unfortunatley, I have a Plenty still to do:
tidy loom
wire in to rev counter
wire in launch control
wire in map sensor
wire in fuel pump to activate on rpm
mount/wire in coolant and air temp sensors
move coilpack
Waiting on some connectors arriving from ebay so I can use all of the external sensor, hopefully get them on by tuesday
Last edited by tubbyG; 27-11-2016 at 01:17.
Cheers matt 👍
I have always thought that efi would be a great addition to the c1j, but no matter how good it would be I wouldn't go down that route due to £££'s per bhp.
If I had a grand or two spare to do the efi I would instead be sourcing an f7 or f4 lump and turboing that - maybe next year
Hey. How's the Nodiz ignition going? Would you say this was a worthwhile mod as i'm looking into doing this myself. Any more info would be great. Thanks
Cant really give any more feedback on the product im afraid I have just working on the loom/sensors this week. I will be keeping the thread updated on the progress.
There are a few others running mappable ignition: 2x nodiz and 2x megasquirt that I know of on the forum and likley more - I have only read positive things about them.
Is it just the ignition side you are considering or is efi an option?
I have never intended to go efi(£$£$), but I wanted to ge the most out of my carb setup as I have drifted quite far from the standard engine spec where the renix was designed for...
Few deliveries this week:
3Bar map sensor, coolant & Inlet air temp probes
Their loom connectors and some diodes for the rev counter pickup
spliced into the coil a/b wires, diodes in parrallel joining finally at a zener diode which is then soldered onto the rev counter wire from the original aei.
Coil pack moved over slightly from std dizzy position to rocker cover as it would have fouled intercooler piping.
Map sensor and stainless bracket for the ecu mounted in the scuttle
Sorting the loom in the dark
Last edited by tubbyG; 28-02-2018 at 11:13.
Nice new bracket for header tank mounted
Since minimalising the coolant pipes - removing the degass pot and subsequently the top hose with the bleed nipple, It had been a right pain to bleed the coolant system properly. So a few chops later a new bleed nipple was added in
Drilled/tapped the carb top for the air temp sensor
I had planned to mount the coolant sensor on the side of the head, but the first bolt I attempted to remove sheared off.... so I have put that on hold for the moment as I have enough jobs to do for the time being.. Where else have people mounted their coolant sensors?
In other news - The other week I sold my bare tungsten grey shell to a lad who plans to store it for a few years while he goes travelling before giving it a full resto on his return (crappy pics)
Glad to see it going to a good home and will free up some much needed room on the drive
Last edited by tubbyG; 28-02-2018 at 11:20.
Looking good nice progress, you almost have that dream setup you have been after for a while :-)
Likeing the header tank bracket might copy that for mine as I need to raise the header tank so it's higher than my rad bleed nipple :-)
Fantastic.
Got a few hours in this morning to finish tidying the wiring
Barely noticeable with the Scuttle cover fitted
Starts and runs well, although needing to get hold of a timing gun to properly set up the Base timing properly.
Pleased to add that the o.e rev counter works
Also I still need to connect up a coolant sensor. Can someone with the sensor mounted in the head blanking plate take some measurements for me??
Last edited by tubbyG; 28-02-2018 at 11:24.
Last edited by tubbyG; 03-12-2016 at 23:45.
Hey. Yeah, i was looking at doing it myself if possible. I'm sure i can work it out with help from all the guys on here ;-)
Woznaldo lives over the other side of OZ, about a 5 hour flight from me!!! But i'll get in touch if he has a mappable ignition, all advise would be great.
Your project is going well, i'll interested in seeing what she can do.
Cheers
It seems 2017 went by in a flash! crazy! I cant believe I went the whole year without an update.
Well the 5 got itself an mot eventually and running on the nodiz, unfortunatley only used for a few outings but went well.
I had a intermittant oil leak throughout the year, resulting in the sump being off 3 times changing seals ....... I eventually gave in and took the engine out before christmas for a strip down. Turns out the crankseal gbox end wasnt seated correctly Im mid re-build at the moment.
I need to get my photobucket sorted out to fix the missing links on this thread then I will get a few pics uploaded of what ive been up to..
Took me a while to see what pics were missing and re-upload them. I still have a few missing so need to go through my photobucket account to finish off.
So I am just going to add some pics of the changes over 2017 as I go through it all.
I decided to make an airbox/heat shield for the intake that still allows decent airflow to the filter.
A few trips around the local area resulted in the start of (a long saga) oil leak which I would chase all year
a replacement oil return was fitted
and the sump came off to replace the half moon seals.
doing all these jobs in winter wasnt much fun so the 5 was left untill the better weather returned along with my enthusiasm.
Once the good weather returned I got the mot Booked, only 5 miles away but this would be the longest journey I had taken in the 5 since building and running on the mappable ignition.
So a quick clean, refuel and off I went..
Upon arriving at the mot station, I could smell fuel - Uh oh...... maybe I shouldnt have put in half a tank on my way . A quick look underneath showed the dreaded fual tank bung had failed. I put it in for test anyway.....
No surprise that it failed........ Fuel leak, another oil leak and rear brakes doing nothing....
I started with the fuel tank...
Then onto the oil leak - this time it was the crank seal at the timing cover at fault. I must have nicked it with the removing/installing the trigger wheel
Hello matey, how are you getting on with the No-Diz conversion? How is it compared to the AEI unit in terms of performance and how the car runs? I, like yourself, want to retain the carb but it is becoming more and more evident the limiting factor will be the ignition system. As I'm doing this engine build from scratch it makes sense to scheme this in now and do away with the factory AEI unit. Hopefully this will allow me to advance the ignition a bit and have the facility to retard on boost. Any advice you can offer?
The AEI already does retard on boost, but it needs more and less here and there. I used to have the +4° advance from swapping around the wires, also slid the TDC sensor back or forth a bit. But that all was just not adequate.
I can honestly say that I am really pleased with the nodiz system. Not just the product but the customer service that is on offer is second to none.
I contacted them (motorsports electronics) for an issue I was having and the fella was happy to chat about my setup and question everything about my installation. He was also more than happy for me to contact him once rectified to let him know what the fault was.
A big pull for me was that they are a UK based Company who are actively improving their products and continuing to work on new systems.
Anyway, in my opinion.... Installation is easy, inexpensive, compatible parts (sensors etc) are easy and cheap to acquire, UK staff, and despite working on other products to release they are improving the nodiz system as time goes on.
The only issue I have was a communication failure between the ecu and laptop - on my version the only way to edit the map is via Bluetooth. Unfortunately this happened while on the dyno attempting to tune.
But in the newer versions a cable connection is possible. I have considered upgrading my unit for the latest version just so I have this backup.
Realistically the AEI ignition curve was based on leaded fuel to cover all sorts of conditions all over europe on a standard engine while being safe. I think that having the ability to adapt ignition to modifications and conditions used in is hugely beneficial
Seems like theres no drawback at all (apart from the additional cost of upgrading from the AEI in the first place), will definitely go down this route with mine! Thanks for the feedback/ reply
Does the NoDiz system or anything else on the car still utilise the teeth on the flywheel in addition to the trigger wheel on the bottom pulley? Going the same way, with the trigger wheel kit available from efi-parts and buy a no-diz unit, but wondering whether I still need the trigger teeth and crank sensor on the flywheel as well? I’m guessing no, but just double checking...
You are correct, Original Crank sensor is no longer needed
The o.e speedo is operated by intercepting the coil pulses through some diodes.
I have my wiring notes somewhere so if you ever need anything I can dig them out - although the nodiz system is a fairly straightforward install
That's great, thank you. Wanted to make sure before I machined the trigger wheel off my spare flywheel!