Wouldnt even need the 197 head. Machining the 172 head will do exactly the same!
Machining the pistons is also a possibility...
Wouldnt even need the 197 head. Machining the 172 head will do exactly the same!
Machining the pistons is also a possibility...
but i take it the 197 head has better flow hence the 197 instead of the 172 (im sure the mapping has something to do with it) but if its a straight swap and has has a larger squish area to lower the C/R
you just chuck it on instant 9:1 C/R no compromise to piston crown thickness
instant turbo engine
What renault is the exhaust manifold off?
A Megane apparently, not the R26 either.
the 197 head was just part off the experiment. it's not a straight swap, they had to drill holes for the belt tensioner.
this was a tryout for a conversion program mwn want to do and when they are going to do it they told to machine the 172 instead of using the 197 head...
this is the thread:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showt...ight=mwm+turbo
btw - bypass for the immobiliser on 2001onwards clios......
http://www.hickleys.com/pdf/renault/rae.pdf
looks like its just a wire to make a circuit back to one of the pins in the OBD scocket...............any one know which pin does which in the ODB plugs in a clio!!!!!!!!
ive a uch which tells my dash im doing 60 in a 30 and have crazy ABS as a result
this might just save me trying to remove and replace the immobiliser (NOT THAT I KNOW WHERE IT IS ON THE pcb) from my UCH and possibly screwing up both UCH'S
uchs arent coded.
think there around £140 ish from renault... just plug and play, swap all the fuses. cant understand why thats affecting your abs tho?
heres the story i swapped a engine out of a 1.4 16v clio into my 1.4 16v clio
the new clio i took the engine out of had rain sensitive wipers and other things i didnt (hence why i dont have intermittent on my wiper stork )
i had to swap the key, the UCH and engine ecu..........but its as if the clocks and abs and wiper stork dont work with the new UCH
the speedo effects the abs as it thinks the fronts are doing 60 when the backs are doing 30 according to my snap on ethos so i can only think when i break its like "o **** its gonna lock up, pulses the break pedal"
i need my old UCH to work my wipers, air con, speedo but it doesnt run the engine due to the wrong key and engine ecu
basically if i could have my new immobiliser code on my old UCH id be
i think my new engine ecu, UCH and key are not compatible with my car
help please
last time i looked i seen prices for a UCH AROUND 400 +CODING!!!!
i c never had to change a clio uch, lots of megane uch's there not coded, cant understand why renault coded the clios i guess you could pull the fuse on the abs? strange how the two clios arent the same. what years were the two cars?
i did pull the abs but looses the speedo lmao ive a new slogan for renault
RENAULT...... LIFE'S A BITCH
clios 51 and a dynamic and the donor was 53 and cant remember but better
engines were the same just wish i never threw the first ecu out
mot is coming up so the cars going the scrap yard as it wont get a mot with a abs light, a air bag light and a engine light on
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
I had this turbo kit from Engine Dynamics fitted to my 172 cup and was by far the best money i spent and never had any problems with it and was so much fun.
I had one that was similar to ED kit. It went like chuff !
It's rearing it's ugly head again
I'm asking myself the question yet again, the difference this time is I have the cash to purchase the ED kit outright...... So why am I stalling? The PMT in me still stupidly thinks it can be done cheaper......
It's bugging the hell outta me Steve
Have a look on Cliosport, AndyRG on there has built quite a few boosted Clio's and has started a company.
Lot's of boosted Clio's popping up there all being done by him.
I can't see higher boost being a problem, just fit Megane pistons, Turn off the vvt, fit a t28/gt28 and ofcourse all the ancilliaries to get it working.
Yup, only doenside to them is they don't have valve pockets so you would have to leave vvt disabled. Or fit a megane pulley so you also get rid of the annoying dephaser
DIY all day everyday heres my thread from ClioSport
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showt...300-Turbo-Clio
And heres a step by step photo guide on my Photobucket on how to install a low boost conversion. (organise oldest first)
http://s274.photobucket.com/user/SP3...?sort=2&page=1
Why people would want un qualified numpties working on their car I really have no idea , at least if you do it yourself if it goes wrong you'll have an idea on how to fix it.
Aii, what you need Ricky is a weekend...a project weekend...a project weekend with some winter headwear
make sure you use our discount code when looking at ED prices, the discount is significant - manifold, IC pipes etc. It might also be worth having a chat with Scoff.
If you can get ED down to around 3k for the 280bhp conversion I don`t even think its worth touching it yourself. The time and effort you put in to try save will probably just cost more in the long run.
I wanted bigger brakes for my 21 but the only kit available was £1200, for 325mm bells/rotors & 4-pots, Off the shelf.
I made my own for just shy of £600, but it took time and effort and patience. Ironically the calipers and pads I used are the same ones in the £1200 kit, but I made my own hangers and sourced some 330mm discs that were a straight fit to my hubs (Clio V6 330mm fronts, 5x108 stud and 57.something mm spigot, identical to the R21T). £600 saved, a few months of messing about on and off, and my hangers are a little heavier than what I would have bought with the kit.
On the flipside, I paid Scoff to fit my Adaptronic to the 21. I bought the unit, the wiring, triggerwheel, blah blah blah but weighing up the options, my skill level with the application at hand, and what was at risk against the cost of paying Scoff to do it for me led to the easy choice of shipping the car off to EFI Parts.
So- can you be arsed with time, effort and messing about to save some money? More to the point, do you have the technical skill to do it? Saving £500 is great, but only if it doesn't grenade itself after 50 miles. Think of the extra cost of the kit as insurance....do you want to be "insured" against issues?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Cl...item27dcb73b72
something already done with extra bits like gearbox, ecu etc
Do we get discount with ED?
Andy, Dave, Rich, i think you're right. The hard work has been done with the kit, all i do is buy it having the reassurance that the research and development (with Scoffs mapping) has been done. I think Matt @Codered is dreading the next phonecall from me
Now thinking for the extra money its probably worth going forged pistons for the 280bhp.
My ultimate aim is to have it done by Sangliers in June
Why go forged pistons? Seriously i would strongly advice using the megane pistons.
Forged pistons need more wall to piston clearance because of the expand ratio. Thus every cold start will cause more wear than with normal pistons. The megane pistons are proven over 300bhp so i don't see the problem tbh.
For what this conversion may end up potentially costing, and just throwing you another idea into the equation, why not sell the Clio & buy a Megane 225/230 instead?
~£4k for a reasonable 225/F1 team, or a couple of bags more opens up the 230/R26 option, which has the LSD in situ.
There's a LY 250 engine'd clio 3 sport for sale on Cliosport for 9k.
Absolutely lovely car, shame the steering wheel is on the wrong side for me!
I did think that, i mean what would 6k get me Megane wise? Why stop there, what would buy me anything hot for 6k.
The flipside in doing the Clio
Power to weight against the likes of a Megane 225/250, Ford RS Focus etc
Something achieved in having a 280bhp Clio for a fraction of the cost of much newer cars
The only Petrol Blue to be turbo...... Yet, maybe
This is why i haven't just gone in and purchased anything yet, but something that's been burning away for a year or 2 now.
The megane engine is weak. The rods bend at >300ibft. I think it could be due to the way that the car produces the torque , mine is mapped with a decat filter fmic and it has a almost vertical torque increase at 2700rpm
the box off the r26 ( the one with the LSD ) can be had for £500
The megane fuel system is also pretty poor and cannot fuel when getting above 400bhp. A seperate fuel cell / pump / system will need to be factored in.
Injectors are available pretty cheaply from the states.
Standard f4r with turbo ( incorrectly called f4rT there was no markification from renault for that one ! ) produces 230CV or around 227bhp
Intercooler and air filter plus map will yield around 250bhp and 270ft ib
Decat on the above + 25bhp and +30ft ib to the above
Injectors + Turbo ( the standard one runs out of puff around 290hp ) will yield 300 hp and a capped limit of 300ft ib
You are then going to have to forge the lump or risk a rod banana.
Just to say i'm not looking for anything 'mental' power wise, i'm not looking for pub bragging rights/figures. I'm looking for more useable power out on road and track, to me +250bhp is a bit of a waste on a road going FWD car.
The ED kit IMO seems to provide everything capable of giving me that...... If i can get the pistons in at a decent package price you could say it's a safeguard option, plus it's all done in one go and the lump doesnt have to be pulled apart at a later date
As has been mentioned this turbo Clio on Ebay is a bargain for whats been done to it. If you've got 6K to spend then it's even under budget.
As for the Meg engine being weak, I disagree with that. Most of the problems I've seen are from people wanting to put too much boost through them which creates stupid torque and goes hand in hand with the other problem,the fuel system. With the FPR not having a boost reference port the fuel pressure drops off as you increase the boost causing them to run lean.
Getting rid of the clio to buy a Meg is a good idea, but you still have the same amount of work to do if you want 330+ bhp from either of them
Last edited by andybond; 03-01-2014 at 14:56. Reason: poorly referenced
Yada yada yada They said the same in the MLR world about Evo o.e rods failing at 400+, yet ~6 years ownership, keeping the revs the happy side of 7k, proved otherwise.
When these F4r rods fail, is it complete failure (ie, snapped), or do they bend? What's the condition of the big-end bearings at time of rod failure?
How many rod failures have been reported?
We'll just have to disagree Andy. IMHO the turbo is too small hence the high torque at low RPM and the rapid drop off further up the rev range.
The Meg 250 has the same basic internals, however it has VVT and a better flowing turbo, Paul is mapping them to well over 300lb/ft with out any issues