Got mine today too, quality! Cheers everyone!! Think I will have to get some new springs, only have 50mm ones and don't wanna f up my new Koni's by going too low?
Got mine today too, quality! Cheers everyone!! Think I will have to get some new springs, only have 50mm ones and don't wanna f up my new Koni's by going too low?
still waiting for mine what are the best springs to get who,s using what.
New poster! (less than 10 posts)
Hi guys, yet to receive shocks but hopefully any day now, also yet to make a choice on springs ... i did find the folowing though on the GT Tuning web site ... has anyone else considered this ? Is it required ? Apparantly GT Tuning think so !
NEW GTT Camber Correctors (S106)
Essential new product for all lowered GT Turbo's. GTT Camber Correctors allow the user adjustment of the front camber settings. This is necessary due to the excessive negative camber that automatically occurs when the front is lowered, i.e. the wheels 'splay out' at the bottom. The camber correctors (one for each side) are fully adjustable. allowing any competent tyre and wheel alignment centre to re-set the camber to 1º NEGATIVE (standard setting).
If anyone in the south east needs springs swapping/top mounts swapping and dont have the relavent tools etc, just give me a shout.
Iv fitted the rear but they seem very soft and bouncy will have to look into the settings first as I haven't a clue.. Cupa tea first then crack on with the fronts
Right then they are on and iv been out.. Tried it with 50s and yep it's too low I think so first chance I get there going to 40s the 50s are just too uncomfortable.. The backs are Definatley too soft I think so i am going to adjust them soon as someone else works out how to doit because I can't lol..
Mine have arrived top job guys. Well done.
It's what the rtoc is all about
Iv probably missed something but I saw no buttons
Its very easy mate once you have the nack.
1 pull the plastic boot down
2 at the bottom of the rod theres a sliver cap push this up and under the plastic spacer you'll find the button
3 push button and twist the other end of the shock.
Hope that helps mate
Last edited by Logg; 31-01-2013 at 18:33.
I knew someone would come to the rescue
I didn't even see that at all so could this be done with one end still attached to the body? Bit of a gaff getting drivers side as the tanks there..
And has anyone got a little guide and pictures for adjusting the fronts??
It might be nice to have a write and and some photos for the articles section.
Showing these being fitted and how to adjust them. And some reports on the setting that you'll all used. The springs heights compared to OE if you can get that measurement. This is because the ride will be harder the nearer you are to the bump stops.
Just remembering something someone recently posted about the back of the car breaking away if the rear is hard compared to the front.
Mine use to do that if pushed hard enough. The rear was very hard from the Bilstein tarmac rally shocks, but yielded over big bumps at higher speeds, eg, 70mph.
For roundabouts and back doubles it was excellent, the back was 'planted'.
But on bends that the front was on the limit at about 40mph, the back would swing out after the bend which was not so good.
And for 40mph straight 'flat' lanes, the back could bounce on the tyre pneumatics and the rear skit side to side, which was rubbish. I realised recently, 6 years after the event, that I should have wound the rear trailing arms up quite a bit so there was still downward movement in the rear suspension once the shocks were on, as those very high pressure gas shocks had pushed the trailing arms down to the limit of the shocks outward extension. If I parked the car on uneven road one rear wheel would be in the air!
I presume this meant that with the higher loading from a faster sustained bend, the inner rear wheel would lift off the road, where a softer rear, or one with available downward wheel movement, would keep the inner wheel down enough to give some grip.
It's taken me all these years to realise that! I kind of woke up the other week with it all clear in my head.
Neither necessary.
Lowering the car increases the negative camber for the front wheels.
This reduces the contact patch a bit on the straights. But may improve grip a bit for the outside front wheel on a corner. But may decrease grip for the inner wheel.
The camber correctors may improve the contact patch on the straight, but may make it worse for both front wheels on a corner.
So iv just been out in the 5 on my private road picking up parts and gave it some wellie round the bends.. I'm happy with the back on soft as it stuck v well of course I will try different setting when I have time.. But the fronts on soft are a little slippy over 70 so I think I'm going to try them a bit harder for cornering.. Anyone else got them on yet? Any other feedback?
Rear ride-height also plays a part - The damper setting won't make much difference if the rear is slammed to the deck; ie, v little shock movement.
I'd say for the majority of fitment, the mid-setting on the Koni rears will be sufficient enough, even for track use. It's not like the 3 settings are going to give you that much to play with anyway
Front setting is personal choice, trial & error for sure, combined with spring rates & height drop of course, but don't expect miracles to happen by simply winding the hardness in/out if the rest of the suspension setup is worn to buggery, and/or the geo' is miles off.
Wishbone/arb bushes, track-rod & ball-joints, steering rack itself, even engine mounts, all play a part as well.
Likewise, with tyres - You can have the full-on Mansell setup, but the dude with 888's will be lapping you in no time if you're running 'wanli ditchfinders'...
Everything's newish no more than a year including my tyres but they are only road tyres after all. I had full wheel alignment probably two months ago.. A lot of the above 70 slide was down to damp conditions aswell but I was pushing it abit as you do.. Don't get me wrong I'm more than happy with the konis I was just hoping someone else tried different set up to just the "soft" setting I tried first.. I looked today in prima racings magazine and they were over £500 boys we did well.. Thanks again
tis a bloody good price
Think we all knew once we could get a full kit it was soooo worth it.
My car doesn't even need new suspension yet but couldn't resist
Just glad that I could help others out and as a result got mine cheap too (I did pay the same as everyone else just for the record)
Update for you guys still waiting (I wont forget these are still outstanding!!!)
PPD have today 'confirmed' they are due the remainder of the kits 1st week in March!
I say 'confirmed' because the original order of fronts arrived 2 weeks early and the rears arrived 2 weeks late.
Delivery dates from their factory are obviously out of my control, but I won't let this drag on, if they continue to move dates back then I will of course start to kick up a fuss, and get things moving quicker
cheers Wallace!
QUICK UPDATE
PPD have taken delivery of the fronts, and the rears are due to them Friday.
Once again this could change, but at present hopefully by the end of next week everyone will have had their kits
Nice!
Trying to fit my Koni's and wish I could say its all plane sailing but it ain't. 2 days I have been at it and fitted backs (6 hours for passenger side and 2 hours for drivers) and managed to get the front drivers side apart after 5 hours. Everything welded itself in rust. Will post pictures of my old shocks once I finish.
Question. Does anyone know where I can get the suspension gaiters for fronts and are they needed. Also after the little rubber bush that sits around the base of the smallest top hat. Spoken to Mike who sorted out most of the bits but doesn't have these two parts (need for both sides just in case). At the moment my front s in pieces until I can get these.
Will give him a go but not sure. Bought a few things from them in the past and whilst they are taken off used 5's they have always been damaged as in broken. Window motors are now paperweights both jammed and the wing mirror is an ashtray as the adjusting wires snapped. Try getting them changed was impossible.
Would these items be new?
To get those top nuts off I've tended to take the assembled struts to a garage / wheels centre / someone who would do it for a very small fee by using their air tools.
That would be handy except. Rear ones just spun on one side. The one that did come undone has the metallic sleeve from the old suspension strut welded to it through rust and the front strut had the nut jammed solid. Had to cut the rear nut with a dremmel and the the sleeve. As for the front strut that had to have the strut cut just to get the other bits off as it just spun the strut when trying to undo.
Impact wrench makes life easier - Had all 4 shocks swapped over within an hour on Saturday.
Try to source/fit the gaitors, as they do help protect the shock rods.