| ID: 1 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air Filters Question: I have had my Renault 5 for several months now, and have done some minor mods to it, including a scorpion exhaust, dump valve and bleed valve. I am looking to purchase an air filter so could you recommend the best one and where to buy it? Secondly, I would like to improve the performance but I am restricted to a budget, so I can’t afford to put a hybrid in yet. I’ve heard that they can be chipped, is this true or would you suggest something else I could buy? Your advice would be great, cheers Turbo Wizard. Answer: Okey Dokey - Air Filter, my favourite at the moment is the Pipercross cone jobbie. They’re available just about everywhere - same price. And you want more power do you, my impetuous young fella? I use magic dust in my fuel, but for you we need to think a little. If you’re staying with a standard turbo, your bleed valve will allow you to increase the boost. More boost more power, without the need for expensive head work etc. The limiting factor for turning up the boost is (among other things) charge temperature, so I’d suggest either an uprated intercooler or if you want the full monty then go for a charge cooler. Also might be time for silicone hoses if using high boost. Good luck young fella-mi-lad. |
| ID: 2 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gasflowing Question: What are the benefits of gasflowing my head. I have heard all sorts of comments about whether this is a good idea or not. Can you help? Answer: Firstly, gasflowing your head will allow more air into the cylinders. More air into the cylinder means more oxygen and therefore more power. Secondly the higher air flow through the head, i.e. in and out means that the turbo will spin up much faster as well. Thirdly, a less restrictive head will mean that there is less temperature build up and therefore less chance of pinking and thus means that the engine will be more reliable. Finally, you will sound like ""one of the lads"" when you mention that your head has been flowed. |
| ID: 3 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Big Brake Conversion Question: I have been looking at big brake conversions, and have noticed that they’re all for the front. Can you tell me if anyone makes a big conversion for the REAR brakes? Answer: Well my friend, the simple answer is - no. The reasons for this are 1. The standard calliper requires a disc thickness of about 8mm as the rear brakes are non-ventilated (solid) discs. Consequently any increase in diameter overall would result in instability under hard braking. 2. The bearings are pressed in, which means that any custom made conversions would themselves have to be further modified to fit. And 3. As far as I am aware, nobody makes any (although it would be theoretically possible). PLUS THERE IS NO REAL BENEFIT IN FITTING LARGER REAR DISKS - IT'S A LIGHT CAR. |
| ID: 4 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump valves Question: I have a problem which I cannot seem to find the remedy to. I was using a cheap dump valve, which was working perfectly, until I noticed one day it had stopped working. I presumed that the diaphragm had split and therefore replaced it with another £15 rubber one. I then found that the original diaphragm had a tiny split all around the ring. Presuming this was the problem I then fitted my new diaphragm but without any luck, it still did not work. I took my dump valve apart and noticed that the new diaphragm had melted/collapsed around the edges. My old one did not do this and my dump valve still doesn’t work. My entire engine is standard apart from the dump valve. Please help me!!!! Is it something to do with my intercooler as you cannot possibly understand what is going on in my head? Answer: Well, I suppose that the key to answering your query is the fact that you bought cheap! Most owners will tell you that there are long term benefits in buying good quality. Let’s look at your dump valve then. Firstly, check the vacuum pipe running from the valve to the T-piece in the pipe from the E.C.U. to the base of the carb. Make sure it hasn’t come adrift. It sounds like you have a screw together type of valve. These are prone to ripping diaphragms due to the ‘shear’ of two surfaces twisting in opposite directions on assembly. Check there are no sharp bits around where the splits are forming. Then use a little bit of red rubber grease around the sealing edge of the diaphragm before you assemble it (you can buy a small tube of this from HALFORDS, it’s labelled as brake grease). Don’t over-tighten it! Also it is important to use a quality diaphragm! Cheap ones don’t last long at all, so as a long-term investment, fit a Kevlar re-enforced one. These can be bought from most of the company’s advertising in the Wastegate for no more than £30! These are the only reasons that could stop a dump valve working. This should solve it once and for all! If you still have no luck, I’d recommend replacing with a dump valve where the two halves are attached by allen bolts, as these do not suffer from the shearing forces I mentioned Otherwise known as Grp A or competition dump valves |
| ID: 5 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Door pins Question: I wonder if you can help me? I have a phase one GT turbo, on which the drivers side door has dropped. I have tried replacing the pins, but it didn’t make much difference. Answer: Actually, this is a very common problem, especially on earlier cars. The later GT turbos (1990 onwards) used a wind-in pin to secure the door hinges- prior to this a knock in pin was used. The most typical reason for doors dropping is simply that the hinges and pins have become worn with continued use. Replacing the pins will cure part of the problem, but if the insides of the hinge are also worn, you will still have a dropped door. There is however a fairly simple solution. Pop out the door pins, which are 7mm. Carefully remove the door, and fit your drill with an 8mm bit. Drill out the hinges to 8mm, and replace the old 7mm pin with 8mm ones. Voila! The new pins in the new size holes should mean a lovely crisp fitting door. It is also possible to convert the knock in pins to the later spec wind-in type, but as this requires the hinge to be screw threaded with tapping equipment, it’s probably best to get your local GT turbo specialist do this for you. |
| ID: 6 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Which oil to use? Question: I am still confused about which oil to use. I know that is needs to be a good one to protect the engine and turbo, can you advise me? Answer: Well my mysterious friend, There is not really a cheap option here. My research has led me to believe that the best oil to use in the GT is MOBILE RACING - IT IS A 15-50 FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL. THE ONLY READILY AVAILABLE OPTION. Other than that Silkoline Gti 15-50 is also superb and less expensive For normal everyday use it is acceptable to use an oil like Castrol Magnatec or Valvoline Durablend. Make sure you do a full oil change every 3000 miles in addition to your normal service schedule, and don’t forget a new sump nut washer every time! |
| ID: 7 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: De-stickering Question: I am thinking about removing the graphic strips from the sides of my GT turbo. I’ve been told that they look better if removed. Any advice? Answer: Well, you’re right that lots of people remove the stripes - this is especially noticeable on lighter coloured cars like white and silver. They are very easy to remove if you take your time and don’t pull too hard! Use a hot air gun (you know the one to remove old paint, although a hair dryer might be just as good). Don’t leave it pointed at your car for too long however or it will strip it down. (NOT GOOD!). Fire the gun/dryer at the corner of the vinyl. When hot to touch slowly peel the corner away from the paint, about an inch then repeat the heating process. To make it easier slice of any excess with a knife when you get about 6-10 inches removed. Once you have removed it all you will probably find some stubborn glue that didn’t want to come off. Use Tar Remover from Halfords, or white spirit. You will probably need to t-cut your door and rear 1/4 as the paint underneath the vinyl will be a lot better looking than the uncovered paint. A quick polish and buff up and the job’s done. |
| ID: 8 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clio rear wiper conversion Question: Can you tell me how to make a Clio rear wiper stay on the screen? I have fitted one, but when it wipes across the rear screen, it doesn’t stay on the screen, it lifts by about half inch because the pivot isn’t allowed to travel far enough in towards the screen. Your help would be much appreciated. Answer: I had the same problem after fitting an early style Clio wiper (the squarer style) with my pal Gregg Campbell. Here’s what we did :- 1. Remove plastic cover from wiper arm, top & bottom. Held on by plastic clips, which will probably snap. 2. At the wiper arm joint you will find the arm will only pivot to a very shallow angle as the two halves of the wiper arm hit one another where they touch. Cut out or drill the longer wiper arm where they touch. This allows the wiper to tilt forward towards the screen at a steeper angle. 3. Re-fit plastic cover. I melted the plastic clips back on with a soldering iron; araldite glue would do the trick. 4. Fit wiper to car; drive around town enjoying the new look of your car. You might find the wiper pushes down hard on the screen, e.g. can make that horrible dry rubber on windscreen noise if not soaking wet, a small price for looking good. I hope this has been some help, Gregg’s had a Clio wiper fitted for two years without any problems. Remember to get a proper fitting to hold the wiper blade to the arm, as these are different; if you don’t the blade will fall off. Halfords etc, etc stock them. |
| ID: 9 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hybrid turbos Question: I require some advice on how to go about changing a Turbocharger on my Renault 5. Can you please help by answering a few questions? 1. How easy is it to change a turbo? 2. Are there any precautions I should take before taking the old turbo off and putting the new one on? 3. Is there anything else I need to change, as the new turbo might be uprated and therefore more powerful? Answer: Well, changing a turbo is relatively easy with the correct advice and tools. I like to wear my pointy wizards hat with my overalls and keep my wand handy (ooh err missus). Usually the job can be completed in 2 to 4 hours. Invest in a Haynes manual, I used one for my first turbo change, they do make life easier. My first attempt took 4 hours, second one about 2 hours with a couple of fag breaks. Warm up your engine for a few minutes on tickover, this will make the nuts on the exhaust and turbo easier to get undone. then follow these steps; IT IS ALSO ADVISABLE TO CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE BEFORE FITTING A NEW TURBO. Disconnect battery. Remove air-cleaner. Remove AEI module (pre ‘88 models). Disconnect metal pipe union on exhaust elbow (connects through cut-out in heatshield, be careful as these have a tendency to snap). Remove heatshield, turbo u-pipe, turbo to intercooler pipe. Disconnect turbo inlet and outlet oil pipes, water pipes (not air-cooled phase 1 models), two wastegate hoses. Disconnect exhaust downpipe. Remove turbo exhaust elbow. Remove turbo unit, Refitting is the reverse of the above, but pour some new oil into the turbo’s oil feed after the outlet has been connected. Change engine oil, filter and sump bolt washer. Before attempting to start the car, disconnect the AEI, or remove the main HT lead. Crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. This will prime the turbo’s bearings ensuring there is no air in the system. After starting the engine, allow it to warm up and check for any leaks or splits in hoses, if all is OK then take the car for a test drive. Remember, always allow the engine to idle after starting for about 10 seconds. Never use full boost until the engine is warmed up. Always allow the engine to idle for at least 30 seconds before switching off. Other things you might need to change depends on how much boost you plan to use, and other modifications you have already done. I will assume you have an aftermarket exhaust and filter if you are going for a hybrid. Here are some guidelines; 14 psi max. Modify overboost switch, rejet carb, strap and freeflow intercooler. 16 psi max. Alloy intercooler to reduce charge temperature, adjust timing to stop detonation. 18 psi max. Silicon hoses, possibly uprated clutch. 22 psi max. Uprated clutch, gas flowed/ported head and manifolds, larger exhaust down-pipe. 22 psi plus. Further engine mods, cam, low compression pistons, lightened/balanced crank, etc. |
| ID: 10 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Back Pressure & Oil Cooler Pipes - Thread Sizes/Spec Question: Turbo Wiz I am shortly going to fit a hybrid turbo to my 5. The new turbo will come with a single port actuator. This means I will be blanking off the backpressure pipe terminal on my turbo exhaust elbow. Can you tell me what size bolt (ie length, size and thread pitch) I need to plug this gap ? Secondly I will be fitting an independent oil cooler. I will be fitting braided hoses directly from the block (where the oil pipes emerge and go on to the rad) and so I really need to know the spec. for my braided hose connections (block end). Can you help please ?! Trev Hibbert, Derby, Member 1605 Answer: Off the top of my head I think the turbo elbow thread to which you refer is an M10 x 1.25 (1.5 perhpas) thread. As long as the hole is blocked it will work fine. The thread can't go into the elbow itself as there is only a small hole at the end of the threaded section. The best thing to do is check with Earls pipes (or other) to see if they have any specific connections for this application. It is also acceptable and cheaper to make your own pipe up, as long as it is oil resistant and can take the pressure and heat. Use 2x jubilee clips on every join and it should be fine. Where using braided hose make sure you are away from any electrical connections as we all know how easliy a wire can come loose in a GT engine bay. Hope this helps |
| ID: 11 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Poly bushes Question: I have purchased some poly bushes made by powerflex I think but none of them fit, do you know of any manufacturer that makes poly bushes that do fit our cars, my antiroll bar is 19mm. Answer: Steven Rally Design make polybushes that should fit. They do two different versions PolyRace and Polysport, the race version being even harder. Your Anti-Roll bar should be 22mm on the GTT. Poly bushes make a noticable difference to the handling as a whole, so I must commend you on a wise and wizard like purchase. Good luck with fitting them |
| ID: 12 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Gauge Question: I want to add an after market boost gauge to my 5, and I want to put it where the clock is. What size gauge do I need, and can I use the original boost gauge connectors for the aftermarket one? Answer: Daniel A wise move indeed to add a ""proper"" boost gauge to your car. The clock space is also a popular place to mount the gauge to make it visable and neat. You need a 52mm gauge You will also need some acrylic sheet or similar to mount it neatly. The best place to take boost from is the base of the carburetor, thus reading the boost the engine ""sees"". This is most populary done by placing a T-piece in the pipe that goes to the ECU, then running that directly to the guage. Of course you will need to make another hole in the bulk head, a good place to do this is where the choke cable goes into the car. This way you are also able to leave the standard gauge intact, even just for effect. Happy boosting and keep your eyes on the road.... not you new gauge!! |
| ID: 13 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo seals Question: Why, Oh wise and wonderfull Wizard do my Turbo seals seem to blow all the time? I only run up to 28psi! Please help. Thanks. Answer: Bruce. Well that is an interesting question indeed!!! Now if you sit down I will begin! If it is genuinly the turbo seals that have blown, then there is a solution. Use twin staggered gap piston ring seals, these are used to great success in the Cosworth high boost turbos. It is usually caused by the combination of high boost and low exhuast back pressure, that cause your problem. All the cars that have been fitted with these, as far as I know don't blow seals. Good luck and ask a turbo manufacture or tuner where to get this done, it entails modification of the bearing housing also. |
| ID: 14 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: brake disks Question: dear mr wizard, i am currently looking to purchase some rear brake disks and depending on the money some front disks as well. i have been looking around for a while but cannot decide which ones to buy.could you please give me a bit of help here,what are your current favs and where might i get hold of them at a reasonable price ? cheers wiz, andy. Answer: Andy Indeed you are faced with a tough descision. Let me try and enlighten you. As far as I am aware there is not a bad disk out there on the market, just some better ones and better prices. The rear disks are best left standard, as there is no rear advantage to having x-drilled ones other than cosmetics. Remember the price needs to include bearings as these can not be reliably pressed in and out of the old disks. I recomend EBC Greenstuff pads all round as they have proved to be very good on all the apprentice wizard's cars.!! As for the fronts, if you have a 15"" wheel then I would suggest going for a ""Big disk conversion"". These are very effective at halting your progress to allow Hedgehogs to cross the road. Other than that my preference is to go with a 235mm (standard) X-drilled set, not grooved. Again these need not be that expensive, approx £90 for the pair MAX. My advice as far as where to get the disks..... Make sure you goto a Tuner that is recomended by the owners club, they advertise in the back of the wastegate and can be found in the contacts section of this site. Ring around for prices and remember to tell them you are a member to take afvantage of the discounts. EuroParts, BB Tuning, Grey Devil Industires, etc etc They all offer the parts you require. Good luck in your search, and keep the spells up! |
| ID: 15 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running wires safely to the steering wheel Question: I want to run some wires up to my steering wheel to a nice little button on it. I'm not sure if it's possible to run the wires up the steering column without the risk of them causing problems turning the wheel or shorting out. Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks Answer: Mr. Campbell Top of the morning to you in Sunny Scotland! Tough question, ummmmm, It can be done. However I am not sure if it is possible to route the cable up the centre of the column. I think I will have to go an inlist some help with this one and do some research. My team are awaiting, so expect a reply here soon. Sometimes even a wizard gets stumped, but not for long!!!! I think I need some more Weetabix |
| ID: 16 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Which engine? Question: Hi. I own an 86' 5GTT, which is going through some major modifications. Having heard that there is no substitute for cubes, I have become interested in either a 1.7 or a R19 16V engine, turbo'd. Being a new member to the club, I hope you will be able to help me by giving me an idea of the power gains, feasibility and cost of doing each of these engine conversions. Thanks for your help wizard, Tom GT Turbo Crazy@aol.com Answer: Well Well the elves will be busy with you car!! After consulting my spell book I have concockted the following answer: The 1.7 engine is all well and good but no one has really pushed the boat out as far as BIG power is concerned. 200 bhp is realiably achiveable so I understand. The 16v engine with a blower is much better indeed. I can see no reason why 300 bhp is not attanable with some work. It is a bit of a shoehorn effort to get it all in but is possible. Cost wise the 1.7 8v engine is going to be quite a bit cheaper. The most prominant company that have been doing these conversions is Prima racing in Notingham. However I would ring around the tuners that advertise in the Wastgate Magazine and ask them, I am sure they will be able to help. You can however achieve big power with the 1.4 engine, I thing a light sprinkling of fairy dust and they can go like stink.... Good luck and Let us know the results of your findings |
| ID: 17 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pipes and flywheel Question: Wizard, I have two questions, firstly, is there any way of tidying up the masses of pipes under the GT Turbo's bonnet, i.e. are all those oil breather pipes necessary, I've seen alloy oil catch tanks advertised, would this do the job? Also my clutch has just started to slip so I'm having a Group 'N' jobbie fitted by GDI but I was wondering whether to get the flywheel lightened at the same time, is this worthwhile? Thanks, Stan. Wembley. Answer: Ahhhhhhhh A worthy question of the turbo wizard indeed. Good to see you using a Owners club tuner for your clutch change. The flywheel can make a big difference to the pick up of the engine. I know if GDI lighten the flywheel they take about 1/3 off the weight. This has a similar effect to removing 1 passenger upto about 40mph. The pick up is much quicker and the car will rev faster. My own experince tells me this is worth it. The only down side is it will make the idle a little lumpy, but not too bad. The pipework, well if I could magic a spell that would remove all the pipes.... enough before I get too exited There are pipes that can be removed if only tidied that can really neaten up the engine bay. I would sugest asking GDI to do this (or at least advise) for you when they do the clutch. There are so many pipes it would take me a light year to explain it all. Keep up the good work Stan and happy boosting |
| ID: 18 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: suspension Question: help!i would like to replace my original suspension,but i dont want to 'slam' it to the floor!what would you recommend and who would you recommend to fit it? ' Answer: Ahhh a suspension question. I like these. Let the wizard tell all...! Right my favourite make is Avo at the moment. Because they have a good combination or ride quality and handling. The nest kit to go for is The Sport Evolution kit. This is expensive but brillinat because you can 1.. Adjust the ride height. On 2.25inch springs (better) 2.. Adjust Bump and rebound on the shocks. 3.. Rebuild the kit when it wears out. Cheaper. 4.. It't Nikel plated, so looks great. The downside is the price which is £465 for the whole kit. I Know Grey Devil Industries deal for Avo, I am not sure about the other tuners such as BB and Europarts. I estimate about 3hrs max to fit the kit also. happy hunting p.s. If you don't want to spend this much, stick with Avo the same applies for the cheaper kits. Koni's are good but don't seem to handle as well. Spax handle well but have a harsh ride. |
| ID: 19 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Level Sensor Question: My Oil level sensor doesn't work at all, (oil pressure gauge works though) I have cleaned up all the conectors and still it does not work. Are they expensive, and are they easy to fit? Does any oil need to be drained? Please help. Answer: The wizard often hears this one.....(sigh) They are pretty simple to replace, about 10 mins after the car is in the air. You have to get under the car to do the job.. No oil needs to be drained. I am not sure on the price, I expect about £45 from reanult best of luck |
| ID: 20 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wheel Bearings Question: Why do i only get 1 thousand miles out of each front wheel bearing, this is starting to get a little expensive, no they have not been hammered in or been incorrectly torqued down the bearings were from gt tuning @ £35 a shot ive killed 5 in 5 thousand miles, help! Answer: My young fellow I can definatly understand your plight. Here is a checklist 1.. What offset wheels are you running and do you run spacers? The offset should be 35mm 2.. Are the wheels balanced correctly 3.. Are all the tracking settings correct? 4.. How low is the car? Is it slammed (so to speak) 5.. Check you have the correct hubs on the car etc 6.. Make sure that all the suspension comonents are not worn, as this can lead to excess vibration etc and not aid your cause. good luck and let us all know how you get on. |
| ID: 21 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: front subframes Question: Hi there. I have an '85 body shell that is being rebuilt but we have a problem with the front subframe. Was there a difference in the 85 and 86 frames? The subframe came off my 86, working turbo but when fitting it to the 85 turbo shell the front offside fixing fits but the subframe sticks out of the front crossmember. Which is, or was, bent? The shell or the subframe? The shell measures up well-cross references; front to back; corners etc. Are there any published measurements for the subframes? Your help would be appreciated Tom Howell Answer: Tom You have thrown quite a tricky question at me??? ummmm My advice is to check with Reanult, or use a company like Mark Fish motorsport who specalise in restoration work with GT turbo's Mark is based in Harlow and is a fountain of information. |
| ID: 22 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo seals Question: Is my turbo about to die or the engine ? I,m getting white smoke on over run ( slowing down through the gears ) but only some times and a little at idle after its started hot. Its running 12psi through a hybrid but I have no idea how old it is as it was on the car when I got it. A lot of turbo repair companys in auto trader offer a free pick up and quote but if I decide not to use them will they send it back in bits ? I,ve been quoted about £150 for bearings and seals by AET is this right ? I would be very grateful for answers Gareth Williams Answer: Gareth Turbos are probably the most contriversal area that we come across, who do you use, how good are they etc.. White smoke on over run sounds more like a head gasket failure, although it is very difficult to diagnose like this. My advice to be on the safe side is to get the car leak tested by a garage like Lex or similar, this is better than a compression test as it shows where the leak is and how bad it is. Then pending that result get the turbo sent off and checked, this will cost £35 ish from a reputable company. If you then want it refurbished they can go ahead. Of course this depends on the turbo condition, but £150 is about the right price for a rebuild, perhaps a little on the cheap side. My recomendation is to use either Turbo Dynamics or Turbo Technics as they have both proved good to myself and helpers in the past. Be careful about using a company in the back of autotrader, I am sure they are fine but there are some sharks about and there are several people who have been stung by dodgy turbo company's. best of luck finding a solution. |
| ID: 23 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Chain Tensioner Question: Me again, could you please tell me if it is necessary to remove the sump to fit a new hydraulic chain tensioner. and will i have to replace the crankshaft oil seal? thanks... Answer: Ahhhhhh! Well to remove the timing chain cover it is much easier if the sump is removed as well. The chain cover is then fitted first followed by the sump, you do not have to replace any of the seals other than of course replacing the RTV sealant on the chain cover and the sump. Make sure everything is clean before re-assembly. Chain tensioners can be bought via a motorfactor, from the manufacture AE. They are cheaper than Reanult. Best of luck, P.S. Replace the chain as well, for the sake of £15 it is worth it. |
| ID: 24 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Problems with camber on front wheels Question: Wizard I have a problem with my 5 it has been lowered 50mm and hsa koni adjustables all round but the insides of the tyres go bald very quickly. Help !! any suggestions Ben Answer: Ben An ago old problem my friend. Do you have a phase 1 car?? Are the bottom ball joints....PERFECT. Is the tracking correctly set with a 4 wheel alignment system. If you have a phase 1 car it might be a good idea to change to phase 2 front suspension system. Of course you must check if all the other components are worn as any imbalance, or worn component will cause problems, Please lets us know the results of your findings... |
| ID: 25 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Group A Carb Question: Dear Wizard I have a group A carb and have been plagued with a presumed fueling problem since I got it. I am in the process of collecting as much information about the correct/recommended main, air corrector, enricher and idle jet sizes. I have received invaluable assistance from Andy Cutler of GDI, Bruce Hockley and Andy Holland and I would be very grateful for your opinion too. Thank you in anticipation. Russell Thorpe (turborussell@totalise.co.uk) Answer: For the Grp A carbs to work well, mixture settings and jet size balance are very important. The main problem with a ""proper"" Grp A carb is overfueling belive it or not. Get that sorted and you should be OK. Also are you running retarded ignition, if so, my advice would be to return it to standard timing. Computer Dyno tests have suggested that any deviation from standard timing will loose you power. Hope this helps Oh can you let us all know how you get on Russell |
| ID: 26 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling Question: I`ve recently had a phase one conversion on my 5, to go with the rest of my goodies, being a dump valve, filter and exhaust. The question is how can I keep the temprature down to reasonable levels, without the whole thing going bang. After a few hard runs, the temprature goes soaring to in between the three quarter and full mark, and normally stays at about three quarters at a steady 70-80mph when cruising. The radiator does have some sealant in it, so I`m fairly sure a new one would help, would an uprated one have any benefits over standard? Is there anything else you could suggest? Would venting the bonnet or uprating the intercooler make much difference? (I`ve already replaced the foglights with mesh, to help a bit.) Thanks Ian Shilvock (1559) Answer: Ian The ago old cooling problem REPLACE THE RADIATOR NOW........ use a copper one from one of the tuners in the wastegate magazine, they are all priced about the same. £100 + VAT is about right at the moment. Market changes seem to affect rad prices and they might soon go up. The cooling system needs a good flush also, use an 82 degree thermostat and a lower rated rad fan switch. These should cost about £15 and £17 respectavly. The temperature gauge should sit half way or a little below, any lower and there is a cooling problem. Venting the bonnet will also help to reduce the tempurature a bit. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DO ASAP BEFORE YOU COOK YOUR ENGINE.. GIVE ONE OF THE TUNERS A CALL, BB TUNING, GDI etc all do the bits you need, have a chat with them, they are all helpful. |
| ID: 27 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pump, Water spray Question: When driving my oil guage reads very low down the scale and I have been told this is the pump. If so, is it expensive or difficult to replace? I would like to make a water sprayer to spray water onto the front of the intercooler when max boost comes on, What can I use as a signal to the relay to switch on the pump ?? Getting ready for summer !!! Gareth Williams Answer: Gareth Use an overboost switch attached to the carb elbow to activate the water spray, you will obviously need to be calibrated.... I know GDI do an uprated oil pump for £95 to owners club members, I am not sure about the other tuners. Other than removing the sump and unbolting the pump itelf there is not much more to the job. It is definatly worth doing the oil pump if it is suspect, but get a garage to do a pressure test before you go and spend your money. The pressure should be 46psi at 4000 rpm. P.s. The pressure sender units are not so reliable, so check that too. good luck |
| ID: 28 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Cup Modification Question: I have seen on another site (Alex's GT Turbo Pages) a system for changing the actuator pipes from two to one. I understand the second pipe makes the car smoother, but will removing it make the car more responsive or will it make the car less driveable on the road? Thanks. PS. I took yours and Andy's (GDI) advice on the flywheel and it was definitely worthwhile but the clutch is a bit tricky! Answer: Stanley Glad the flywheel has worked out well for you, the clutch.... yep they are a little tricky, but it is the best one for the job. You will get used to it... I can give you some wizard dust to lighten it a little.! The cup modification is supposed to make the turbo more responsive, I believe it does although I must admit to not really noticing the difference. It does tidy the bay up a little, removing one of the pipes that is not needed. Let us know what differences you have noticed from the flywheel. Have a go at the cup mod, to block the turbo elbow use an M10 bolt. Put a small screw into the carb outlet, where the pipe was, and block the rear actuator outlet. Best of luck Stan and keep up the good work. |
| ID: 29 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electric window motor Question: I have had huge problems with my electric window on the drivers side. it often refuses to work unless you push it down with a hand to either side of the glass. i've had the door trim off and tested the connectors to the motor and it's definately getting power to the motor. if the motor was lifted the window seemed to work more often (but not always). it doesnt seem to have a problem going up but sometimes has 2 be pushed downwards to get it to ""grip"". Please advise on what the best solution would be as i don't wanna buy a new motor to find out the old one was OK - if you think a new motor is needed do you know where i can get one cheap?? Answer: Steve I suspect that the runners are out of alignment. They need to be adjusted to get the glass to move in a straight line. If the motor is tired it will show up more clearly after that. Most of the tuners can get motors in for you try BB tuning, Grey Devil Industries, or Europarts to name a few, anyone in the owners club magazine, make sure they know how that you are an owners club member when you call. You will need to check the haynes manual to see how to adjust the runners. |
| ID: 30 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mark Fish autosport Question: Thanks for the suggestion about contacting Mark Fish but have you got his tel number? 192 only have Fish Bros--who are jewlers! Thanks Tom Howell pilchardco@aol.com By the way, as you can see the logging in now works well on aol! Answer: Tom, Mark Fish engineering / Motorsport, based in Harlow. I don't have the number I am afraid. I will try and dig it out and mail you. |