F7p fitting idle problem

Hi there just about to fit an f7p in my 5,problem is as im doing research on the fittment before i start,ive stummpled across a problem.

Was speaking with James5 and he had told me about the problem with the car idling at 2000rpm,when you go over 30mph it will not return to 1000rpm unless you cut off.
He has said there is a way round it but he cannot remember what it is
Does anyone know the way round this as i cannot start the conversion until i know i can go round this problem.

I cant afford to go stand alone management,will do at a later date when funds are available as will be turboing,but for this year just want run a reliable 5 n/a f7p.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys

They tend to idle at 1500rpm after driving if you don't have the speedo cable fitted to the clocks, as there's a road speed sensor that needs to be connected.

If you fit the 16v interior loom and dials along with the cable speedo and road speed sensor you won't have the problem

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Originally Posted by Chunk

They tend to idle at 1500rpm after driving if you don't have the speedo cable fitted to the clocks, as there's a road speed sensor that needs to be connected.

If you fit the 16v interior loom and dials along with the cable speedo and road speed sensor you won't have the problem

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Thanks Chunk,im really trying to keep the gtt clocks in situ if i could and run it correctly
fitting the interior loom sounds like alot of work im bad with wiring lol

Anyone??????:confused:

There was a few thing's I tried but I can't honestly remeber, you could remove the ICV and block the ICV pipes up so no air / boost leaks then merely open up the throttle body screw a bit once engine warm to allow it to idle around 1000rpm's.

Don't forget to seal up the air bypass screw (like a mixture screw on a GTT, it can pop out after a while) with a blob of THIXO or silicone.

Did we sort it on your car James, I thought we did, like you I cannot remember what we did though
:crap:

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Originally Posted by 5teve L

Did we sort it on your car James, I thought we did, like you I cannot remember what we did though
:crap:

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I remember removing the ICV and having it like that for a while, I was looking into something to do with the VSS signal but I can't for the life of remember what I was doing :laugh:

Iirc there only 1 wire that goes from the speedo cable to the ecu, the other 2 are 12v and earth.

Iirc that's indeed what you did mate.

the thing you could do to make it work is measure the block pulse from a clio with an osciloscope to see what it looks like and then reproduce it with a little chip.

Or you could find someone who is able to disable it in the ecu, or use James's option which deletes idle control....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tutuur

Iirc there only 1 wire that goes from the speedo cable to the ecu, the other 2 are 12v and earth.

Iirc that's indeed what you did mate.

the thing you could do to make it work is measure the block pulse from a clio with an osciloscope to see what it looks like and then reproduce it with a little chip.

Or you could find someone who is able to disable it in the ecu, or use James's option which deletes idle control....

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:agree: